A balcony made for two

A project we've been wanting to get to for a while is our balcony. Now that it's spring, we have no excuse. The balcony gets very little sun, so finding the right plants can be tough. We went to the market and found a few different ferns and flowers that worked. It turned out lovely, don't you think? It goes perfectly with our favorite springtime drink, Campari and soda.

Eindelijk!

I've been hearing this word a lot around here. It means finally. And it's usually said with an emphasis on each syllable, as such: eind-uh-lik.

Yes, we're talking about the weather. It's finally spring! The birds are chirping, the trees are sprouting new leaves, flowers are blooming, the winter coats are stashed. You can feel the elation. Now, don't get too excited--it isn't warm yet. We're still sporting gloves and scarves some days, because it's still about 41ºF in the morning. With highs of 52ºF to 56ºF. So, ya, not warm.

The best part about spring here is that the sun comes up at 6am, nearly reaches the top of the sky, and goes down around 9pm. Plenty of time on the weekends for going to our local park, Sarphatipark. I really love it because it's a locals kind of place. People jogging, walking with their kids, playing with dogs. Just a normal, gorgeous park.

 

Spring is (almost!) in the air

Seeing Amsterdam by boat is one of the best things to do in the city. So, as a general rule, when you're invited on a boat in Amsterdam you almost always say yes. Especially when there are pancakes involved!

We met Koen and Alex sort of randomly and it's a good story. Elliot and I had just moved into the neighborhood and we decided to check out one of our local cafés, Gambrinus. This very nice Dutch guy served us at the bar and chatted us up, in English. We talked about California and Holland and why we're here, yada yada. He mentioned his girlfriend from Colorado is moving to Amsterdam in a few months and he was super excited to show her the city. Not knowing what would come of it, I wrote down my email address on a napkin and told him to give it to her, in case she'd want to meet for a coffee when she got into town. I didn't really think about it for a couple months, until she emailed me! We met up in December at some point and the rest is history.

So Koen has a great little boat and they invited us out on the canals for the day. It wasn't a sunny day, but it also wasn't raining and it wasn't freezing. With fresh coffee, orange juice, and (oh ya!) pannekoeken, we all jumped aboard and got cozy. He took us out to the outskirts of the western canals and we made our through the center. We saw some really amazing houses (with yards and docks and porches!). When we got hungry again we just docked up to a café for some broodjes (sandwiches) and people watching. It was a perfect Sunday!

  

Sights and sounds on my way to work

Most days of the week I head to Rotterdam for work, but on Tuesdays and Thursdays I work at our Amsterdam office, located on the Westerdok. Although it's still bitter cold out, I always look forward to my 17 minute bike ride. This is roughly the ride I take (right).

This morning was unusually sunny, so I decided to strap my camera around my neck and take pictures of the everyday life I see on the streets. I didn't look through the viewfinder (safety first!), I just clicked away.

Sint came knocking

So last Wednesday was Sinterklaas, accompanied by Pakjesavond (gift night).

At 8am - before it was even light out - I woke up to the lovely sound of a typical mobile automatic organ (above). It was playing the typical Sinterklaasje song. These things are all over the place, but not usually outside my front door. This is what it sounded like:

Ice skating on the canals

When we got back from South Africa, the temp dipped down to about 5ºF and stayed there for a couple days. That's when the excitement started. The canals started to freeze!

For two weeks the people in this country had one thing on their minds: the elfstedentocht. That is, the 11-city tour. It only happens once every 20 years or so and the last one was in 1997. It's a huge freaking deal. Only certain people can actually skate the race--and only on certain years. You have to get on a list or something. I heard they were talking about moving ice from one canal to the other, too. Wow!

So a couple weekends ago, the entire Kralinge Lake in Rotterdam was frozen. My boss (I'm sure he'll love this) is very nice and often on Fridays will say, "Ok, Meredith, I have something for you do this weekend." Though I'm never quite sure if he's going to say something about work, he usually offers excellent recommendations for things to do in Rotterdam--he is, in fact, a true Rotterdamer. This time, here was the conversation...

JL: Ok, Meredith, I have something for you do this weekend.
MG: Oh, really?
JL: You must go ice-skating.
MG: Yes, I'd really like to! But where can I rent skates?
JL: You don't have ice skates?!?
MG: Who owns ice-skates?
JL: Everybody owns their own ice skates!
MG: Of course they do.

So, we had to find ice skates. It was easy enough for me to find a nice pair of well-worn, long-distance Norwegian ice skates from the 70s in size 40. But poor Elliot--size 47 is just impossible.

And so we went! Elliot on foot and me on the irons. It was awesome. Pretty epic, actually. I'm really glad we had the chance too, because the next day...the snow started to melt.

Happy New Year (in February)!

Better late than never, right? That's my motto.

Well, in Holland, we celebrated Old Year's Night just as the Dutch do--enjoying loads of fireworks, Grolsch, and a glass of prosecco on the streets at midnight. Our Italian friends joined us on the Erasmus Bridge for the spectacular firework show that seriously lasted at least 17 minutes and 14 seconds--according to the time lapse from my first photo to the last. Who said we were in an economic crisis?! Apparently pyrotechnics is the field to be in, and stick with.

Fireworks are legal in Holland at this time of the year, and this year the strong ones are coming from Eastern Europe, not China anymore. A couple days before New Year's you start hearing them fire off--BANG!!--and by 2pm on December 31st it already sounds like a war zone outside your window. It's actually scary! And definitely not safe. Groups of young guys huddle together on street corners, light them, and then throw the fireworks in the middle of the street, just to scare the cars and cyclists. Not cool! Mostly they're the fireworks that just make a loud noise, but still.

After the truly awesome show on the bridge, we headed back to our new apartment (oh, we moved by the way!) near the Witte de Withe straat. Our neighbor set off this giant hose-like firework just across the street--totally nutso!

Happy New Year from Rotterdam!

That's what neighbors are for!

Our neighbors invited us to a family-style celebration of Sinterklaas on December 2, four days before the real 'celebration.' It was right next door and how could we say no to some true Dutch culture in our lives?! Plus, our neighbors are just awesome and I've enjoyed their company on multiple occasions, usually involving lots of red wine, gourmet food (Klaartje is a chef), and plenty of laughs. And they make me practice Dutch as well. Good people.

[L] Dutch Christmas cookie treats [R] Boerenkool with smoked sausage

We started the evening with a typical Dutch dish called boerenkool that Klaartje and her dad made. It's basically a leafy green like kale mixed in with lots of mashed potatoes. It's topped off with rookworst, or smoked sausage. Klaartje also made these incredible baby onions, pickled in aged balsamic, to eat along with the main. Delicious! A little mustard and an Heineken went along well, too.

[L] Rachel found 'de zak van Sinterklaas' outside the door
[R] Sint reading aloud all the naughty things we did this year

After everyone was finished eating--and had started snacking on the pepernoten, taai-taai, and speculaas, which are all some sort of spiced cookie-like thing--we all of a sudden heard a loud knock on the front door!! WHO COULD IT BEEEEEEE?!??!?!?! Of course, it was Sinter Klaas! He had several large bags with him, filled with tons of gifts to share.

Before any gifts were distributed, he had to make sure to tell us all the naughty things each of us did this past year and how to improve our behavior for the coming year. So he got out his special book and read aloud for all to hear.

A poem from Sint; a buttery pastry filled with marzipan; treats for the Christmas dog

Finally, we all sat down again and Sint emptied the bags onto the floor--so many presents!! It filled the whole living room. I was really, really shocked. One by one, people opened their gifts and read the accompanying poems aloud as well. Remember, all the poems are signed by Sint so you never know who gave you some of the gifts! We even had a poem to read--in Dutch of course--and presents to open. We got a new door mat, candles, a DIY gingerbread house (awesome!), chocolate letters, and a new wallet and coin purse. It was so touching and heartfelt--I told you I have the best neighbors!

Chocolate letters (the first initial of your name), good times, and a new door mat!

And a special thanks to Sint as well. ;)

Dank je Sinterklaasje!!

Fiets freaks!

Now, here's a (quick!) blog entry that is way over due! Cycling, Dutch style!

One thing I love about living in Holland are the bikes. A few well-known facts are that every Dutch person has at least one bike, there are more bikes than cars in this country, and many bikes end up in the 4000km of canals and rivers throughout the country. I heard that every year the City of Amsterdam literally rakes the canals for bikes, then fixes them up and sells them!

Bicycle diversity

This country is outstanding on all accounts when it comes to bikes. In the Netherlands, about 27% of all trips were made by using the bicycle in 2006, and other sources claim it's more like 33%--an impressive mode share to us Americans (we're at, what, 3% in San Francisco?!), but considered 'low' to the Dutch Ministry of the Environment, even though it's the highest rate in Europe. A majority of these trips are traveling to work or to shop, and rarely ever for recreational purposes. Why, you ask, is the Netherlands the capital of cycling? Good question. I can think of a couple reasons (Dutch readers, please give input!).

First, the country is very flat. Almost painfully so. This makes for leisurely cycling, so you're not too sweaty when you get to the office. Another reason, the incredible infrastructure. Timed bike traffic lights,  abundant (yet never enough!) bike parking, visible and plentiful way-finding signs, and of course the fietspad all make for easy cycling in this country. Almost always you'll find yourself cycling on a fietspad, or 'bike path,' in the city or countryside--an off-street 4'-10' path, often colored red, usually buffered by parked cars, and sometimes raised from the street. It's truly divine.

Another [better?] rationale for cycling is that it's just normal. Cycling has been around in Holland since the late 1800s and the separated cycle path movement began in the early 1900s and continues today. Cycling is not a political or individual statement here, it's the norm. And a safe norm, for that matter. Even in a modern city like Rotterdam!

Separated cycle paths are obviously wonderful for cycling safety, but more than that, drivers here are also cyclists themselves and therefore drivers are cautious of cyclists. The driver-cyclist relationship is respectful, friendly, and symbiotic (for the most part).

You honestly cannot walk 10 feet without seeing something to do with the bicycle. And neither wind, rain, nor snow will stop people from using their bike. No matter what--you'll always see the fietspad full of cyclists!

Well, Elliot and I are off to the Dutch countryside for a short weekend adventure. We hope to see

some nature, enjoy the crisp outdoors, and take advantage of the beautiful fall colors while the leaves are still on the trees. We're not bringing our bikes--our feet will have to do!

xo

The Oogst, a farmer's market déjà vu

For the past nine months I've been irritated that in such an international city as Rotterdam, there is no such thing as a newspaper or local events magazine in English. Man, I'd really love to know if anything super cool is going on this weekend... I've asked countless people about this lack--both expat and Dutch. Nothing. They had nothing for me. Really, how is it possible?

Total tangent here, but I promise it'll get back to the main story...If there's anything I've learned here, its this: don't beat around the bush with the Dutch--ask exactly what you want to know. In fact, think about the result you want and form a question that tackles it. It's an art. Especially as a polite American (well, I like to think I am). In this situation, what happened was that I merely asked the wrong question. This happens a lot here.

A perfect example of this was when I discovered the organic store across the street sold wine by the liter and I wanted to taste it before purchasing a whole liter (less than a liter was not possible). The wine spout is just around the corner from the coffee machine that serves complementary espresso in to-go cups. Here's the conversation I had:

A labor of love: the making of my first quilt

Well, this is actually my second quilt if you count the other one I made in 7th grade Home Ec class. This one was a much larger scale, measuring out at roughly the size of a double bed. It was a gift for a dear friend; a congratulations on her wedding and marriage.

I started this journey the day I received the save-the-date. I knew the two of them, especially him, had spent a lot of time thinking about and creating a meaningful symbol that conveyed a sense of who they are as individuals as well as a couple. A wonderful, modern graphic emerged and its statement was crystal clear: the love that surrounds them is what warms their hearts. And I thought a quilt could keep them warm as well!

I started with the fabric. Oh so difficult. I settled on soft cottons in beige and two shades of both gray and orange (not the purple above!). After I washed, dried, and ironed all the fabric, I was ready to go.

An outdoor movie, San Francisco style!

I picked up the free daily Rotterdam newspaper and discovered an outdoor movie festival going on, for the next 10 days, in the newly renovated Museumpark on the other side of town. I asked my Dutch neighbor about it and she said that every year the Pleinbioscoop is always a fantastic time. Elliot and I checked out the movie schedule and decided to see Somewhere, the new Sofia Coppola movie. It's set in Hollywood, so we thought it'd be nice to reminisce the warm California weather and hip LA lifestyle. Doors opened at 7pm, and the movie started at 9:30pm. We arrived by bike around 8:30pm, got our 3€ tickets and 1€ folding chair, and found two nice aisle-side seats. In true Dutch style, everyone lined up their chairs in a neat, orderly and systematic fashion. Love it!

The setup of the plein seemed like you're typical drive-in style, but the atmosphere screamed San Francisco SOMA-esque industrial chic: the silverscreen was surrounded by numerous old trailers and converted shipping containers-turned-cafes and restaurants, even a short-film movie theatre with velvet curtains and plush red velvet seating. Each container was topped with unique sets of dim-lit lamps, creating a cozy atmosphere.

Down by the banks

After Elliot and I were privileged with a weekend visit from long-time friend, Gadiel, the boys headed off to Italy for a manly adventure in Milan, Parma, and Cinque Terra. While Gadi was here, we toured him around our 'hood, went to Den Haag for a dinner party, and also Delft for a day trip. We tried to check off all the Dutch things to eat: raw herring sandwich, fries with mayo, bitterballen, appletaart with cream, and a fresh salmon dinner and Dutch potatoes from the market. On Monday, July 4, I saw them off at Rotterdam Centraal. So fun to have you around, Gadi!

Dinner party in Den Haag

Mom and Dad come for a visit!

Happy 4th of July everyone! No fireworks here today...

We had a whirlwind of a tour in Holland once my parents arrived in Rotterdam last Friday. We headed to Delft on Saturday--one of the most darling cities in all of Holland and only a 12-minute train ride away. The story-book town is the home of the famous painter Johannes Vermeer ('Milkmaid,' 'The Girl with the Pearl Earring'), the original site for the production of 'Delftware' porcelain and its famous color Delft blue, and also the the burial site of H.R.H. William of Orange, circa 1500s. A gorgeous old city with classic canals, arched bridges, gabled houses, and a lovely main square.

Delft

A skirt with a Liberty surprise...

Even though I was supposed to be working on the uber down-low sewing project (that is oh-so-close to being done) I needed to take my mind off of it for a few hours. I had a little scrap of this beautiful burnt orange cotton crepe fabric and decided to make a skirt with it. When I was in London over New Years, I picked up some incredibly colorful and silky Liberty cotton fabric on sale (the only way commoners can afford it), and have been ever since saving it for, well, something. Since I hadn't anything in mind for the colorful cloth, I chose to line the skirt with it and make pockets as well.

My pattern was a favorite skirt in my closet (called the Anna skirt from Anthro) and I tried to replicate it as close as possible, with the half-elastic waistband, pockets, and lining. The whole project took about five hours and came out quite well, I have to say.

I had the most trouble learning how to sew the gathered waistband. Definitely a mission. Pockets are getting easier, but there's still so much to learn!

[up next: the Parents come to Rotterdam for a visit!]

A pledge...

It's come to my attention that although I've been doing a good job of documenting the "playing in Europe" portion of my blog's subtitle, I haven't necessarily attended to the "living in Holland" part as much I like. Living in Holland is, obviously, a large part of my life and the occasional jaunt to a neighboring country is the, well, occasional part of my life.

So here goes. Hither to forth is my pledge to write more about life in Holland.

For the past 78 days it's been raining nonstop here in the Low Lands. Ok, fine, only 6 days (and it won't let up anytime soon) but it sure feels like 78. Today was actually sunny when I awoke and then turned overcast by the time Elliot made me coffee. Because it's so awful and cold and rainy and windy, there's really nothing else to do but stay inside and sew and blog and read and cook. [By the way, Hunger Games is one of the most exhilarating books I've read this year...could. not. put. it. down.] And I'd love to share my current sewing project, but it's on the uber down-low and I'll be able to reveal it in about a month. Since I can't do that, I thought I'd give you a detailed run-down of my Sunday, in a photo diary.

So was that too boring? Well, dinner was fantastic I'll tell you that. The weather really made me want something warm and hearty. My thought exactly -- chili was definitely the answer. I found a great recipe from Jamie, added a bit more heat and a few more veggies, et voilà! I topped it with some creme fraiche, diced tomatoes, and fresh coriander. Yum. Totally hit the spot.

And now it's story time...

I know, I know. It's been for-EVER. Amazingly, when you don't have a job you become insanely busy! Life has been full of cooking, sewing, traveling, planing trips, café-ing with girlfriends, going on trips, exploring new cities, cycling, gym-ing, dealing with visa nightmares, hosting, party going, party making...and, yes, wedding planning. I won't bore with all the crazy stories, but I do have a few to share...

A trip to the market...

...occurs twice per week--on Tuesdays and Saturdays. This is not just your regular market. Located in the center of the city, on a street called Binnenrotte, the market spans about 1/2 kilometer (1/3 mile) and over 500 vendors come from all over Zuid Holland to post up their goods for the whole day. People from all over the city flock to the market, especially on Saturday, to get everything from fresh fish to pears, flowers to eggs, antiques to shaving cream. Luckily, it's right in our neighborhood! 

i've got a crush...

...on two new girls who popped into my life and I just had to share! Please let me introduce to you, Anél (left) and Arden (right). 

Anél and Arden carrying our trees from the market. Three (3!) for 5 euros! THREE!

a quest for a home...

... can be exhausting in another country. Its been so cold here (25ish) and snowy but check it out: we found a place! The hard part was choosing between neighborhoods: 'burbs or city center? When I say 'burbs, I really mean its only about 10 by bike to the city center or a 10-15 min walk to most life's essentials (only some restaurants and bars, but grocery store, bookstores, cafes, etc). After seeing eight apartments it came down to three places: two in the city center and one in the ‘burbs. Both city center apartments are a stone's throw from a major grocery store, an organic grocery store, TONS of shopping, restaurants, bars, the metro (at which to meet guests!!), etc. So here were the final 3 contestants: