Fietsentocht to the fireworks

A very Dutch thing to do in the summer is a fietsentocht, or a bike journey. Usually they last a few days or a month. Ours was a couple hours. And we were fine with that. It happened to be the international firework festival in Scheviningen, the beachside town near Den Haag. We rented bikes when we got off the train and cycled about 15km through the dunes (the long way) to the beach. We got rained on a little (what's a bike ride in Holland without rain??), but made it just in time for dinner and a view of the fireworks. Of course it was pouring almost the entire way back to the train station. But it was warm and we had fun!

Sights and sounds on my way to work

Most days of the week I head to Rotterdam for work, but on Tuesdays and Thursdays I work at our Amsterdam office, located on the Westerdok. Although it's still bitter cold out, I always look forward to my 17 minute bike ride. This is roughly the ride I take (right).

This morning was unusually sunny, so I decided to strap my camera around my neck and take pictures of the everyday life I see on the streets. I didn't look through the viewfinder (safety first!), I just clicked away.

There's something about -5-degree weather that makes me want to watch 80s movies all day

But alas, I don't. It's been a busy month!

First, I could not believe it's 2013. Now, I can't believe it's almost February! This month has just flown by. We've been meeting new friends, working hard, and watching lots of movies from the 80s (our 2013 resolution is to see 80 movies from the 80s). Something I didn't write about was Elliot's mom visit during Christmas. We had a lovely visit. Elliot had off from work, so we could go on short trips around the city and enjoy long dinners together. We went to Haarlem for a day, too. One of my favorite Dutch cities. Mary wanted to eat all the Dutch treats possible--so we ate it all! We had olliebolen (doughnut like things), frites with mayo, stampot, boerkool, rookworst, kroketen, and pea soup. (sorry about the spelling!)

Also, ever since I got a new contract with Stipo, the urban planning company I was working with before, life has been very busy. We just published our first book The City at Eye Level (edited by yours truly) and I organized a huge launch for the book in Rotterdam. The venue was this old supermarket that we turned into an awesome party place. It was a great success, and made me miss wedding planning. Elliot even helped out with book sales!

All the while, it's been getting colder and colder. Even though we've passed the darkest days of winter, now we're in the middle of the coldest days of winter. It's been in the low 20s (-6ºC) and with snow. Despite the ice, we're still biking to work, as all the Dutch do. I had to scrape out the ice and snow from my basket the other day! But, wow, how lovely is the snow. The white outlines the curves of the city in such wonderful, photogenic ways. It's tough to capture, you just gotta come see it for yourself!

Lighting it up in Amsterdam

This will be just a quick one. Where has the time gone! I cannot believe it's almost New Years Eve!

Even though it gets dark at 4pm and light by 10am, the Dutch go a great job at lighting the city at night. The other night Elliot and I went out on our bikes to enjoy a dry evening (and fairly warm at 47ºF) and to check out the Lights Festival on the canals. There are several light artists (a new concept to me!) in town displaying their art on buildings and on walls throughout the city.

Also, each shopping area in the city dawns sparkling lights right when it gets dark out. Makes it a little easier to handle the dark and cold winters here!

A hint of Sint

Sinterklaas has finally arrived in Holland!! Elliot and I rode our bikes around the whole city and all the canals, chasing his boat to get the good shots. And then we waited forever til the parade started. Finally we saw him!!

Croque madame me, please!

Even though we're slated to go to Paris for someone's 30th birthday in a few weeks, when a dear friend says she'll be in Paris for a meeting (despite the 5 days-notice) I couldn't help myself from hopping on the next train. Her hotel was near the Eiffel Tower, so after an amazing croque madame and a stroll down Rue le Cler we headed straight there for a view of one of my favorite structures in the world. 

A birthday bicycle!

Elliot and I both love our Dutch bikes. We use them everyday. Sometimes four times a day. Take Sunday, for example. We biked to the Vondelpark (and then through it); we went to the grocery store and did some Sunday shopping; and on our way home stopped for a coffee. Later, we took our bikes to the Melkweg, a very cool music venue, and enjoyed the weirdness of the band Hot Chip (which could be called a group of interesting sound-makers with the most non-lead-singer of a lead singer. Very cool band.) And then biked home. I'd say we were on and off our bikes for a good four to five hours. Typical Sunday.

Elliot bought his bike in a bit of haste. We'd just arrived in Amsterdam, and he needed one ASAP to get to the train station to get to Hilversum, where he works. This bike was a pretty good deal and the frame fit his frame. But he's never been psyched about his bike. So for his birthday, I decided to do something about it.

Just another school pick-up, Dutch-style

We live above an elementary school. In addition to the pleasure of hearing non-stop squeals and laughter from the children, I also get to witness the oh-so-Dutch school pick-up at 3pm sharp (1pm on Wednesdays). Here's how it works.

About 972 bicycles ridden by 972 parents appear out of nowhere and gather in the front of my building at 2:45pm. The bicycle stock includes single-seaters, bikes with a front child's seat, a rear child's seat, bikes with a front and a rear child's seat, Danish-style cargo bikes, Dutch-style cargo bikes, cargo bikes with a rear child's seat, and that's about it. Of course there's a lot of color and accoutrement variety as well.

A new basket for Rosa

The wood crate lasted about 3 weeks. It literally fell apart after the first hard rain (that lasted several days). Did I mention that it rains a lot here? So I took it back to the guy I bought it from and he kindly gave me my money back. Then I went straight to my favorite second-hand store and found this awesome wicker basket for €8. I'm not sure how long this one will last, but I like that it's wicker. And it's huge. A bit cumbersome to park my bike in the racks, but totally worth it! I sprayed it down with varnish, so I'm hoping it'll at least last through the winter. We'll see!

New colors in Amsterdam

One thing the Dutch love to talk about is the weather. I hear these conversations all day long. It's good practice for my beginner Dutch! It may not officially be autumn (is it?) but it sure looks that way. Such a lovely time of year in this city. The leaves of course are the highlight. All the oranges and yellows go perfectly with my teal coat. The weather hasn't been too bad yet, either. At least 3 sunny days per week, and some off-and-on sun on other days. This is the time of year the weather can't decide on anything.

My Dutch bike

Meet the new love in my life--my bike. Her name is Rosa. An older, back-braking Batavus. She is totally fabulous and oh-so-Dutch. That's right, she's a she. In Dutch, bike is a he, but for me, she's a she. I picked her up at a local used fietsen (bike) shop, got her rigged up with a front shelf that can hold 25 kilos and is attached to the frame, not the handlebars and front tire--that way the weight in the front will remain evenly distributed (you can see this in the last picture, even when the wheel is turned the crate remains facing forward). I got the wood crate at another bike shop. It was an impulse purchase--I really would like a wicker basket, so I'm keeping my eyes out for one and see how long this crate lasts (it rains a lot here).

Good ol' Rotterdam in Movember!

In case you didn't know...it's Movember here, too. Funny how those things travel continents.

Ok, back to Rotterdam... it's always fun to show a good friend around our newfound home here. Martin was on a business trip in Switzerland and was able to take a few days to grace us with his presence in Holland. He got a whirlwind tour of Delft, Den Haag, Rotterdam, and Amsterdam--pretty good for a first time visit in the country! Our tour of Rotterdam started on bikes, of course, and we first visited the must-see "Santa with a butt plug." Yes, that's the real name of the statue. Oh, Rotterdam.

Fiets freaks!

Now, here's a (quick!) blog entry that is way over due! Cycling, Dutch style!

One thing I love about living in Holland are the bikes. A few well-known facts are that every Dutch person has at least one bike, there are more bikes than cars in this country, and many bikes end up in the 4000km of canals and rivers throughout the country. I heard that every year the City of Amsterdam literally rakes the canals for bikes, then fixes them up and sells them!

Bicycle diversity

This country is outstanding on all accounts when it comes to bikes. In the Netherlands, about 27% of all trips were made by using the bicycle in 2006, and other sources claim it's more like 33%--an impressive mode share to us Americans (we're at, what, 3% in San Francisco?!), but considered 'low' to the Dutch Ministry of the Environment, even though it's the highest rate in Europe. A majority of these trips are traveling to work or to shop, and rarely ever for recreational purposes. Why, you ask, is the Netherlands the capital of cycling? Good question. I can think of a couple reasons (Dutch readers, please give input!).

First, the country is very flat. Almost painfully so. This makes for leisurely cycling, so you're not too sweaty when you get to the office. Another reason, the incredible infrastructure. Timed bike traffic lights,  abundant (yet never enough!) bike parking, visible and plentiful way-finding signs, and of course the fietspad all make for easy cycling in this country. Almost always you'll find yourself cycling on a fietspad, or 'bike path,' in the city or countryside--an off-street 4'-10' path, often colored red, usually buffered by parked cars, and sometimes raised from the street. It's truly divine.

Another [better?] rationale for cycling is that it's just normal. Cycling has been around in Holland since the late 1800s and the separated cycle path movement began in the early 1900s and continues today. Cycling is not a political or individual statement here, it's the norm. And a safe norm, for that matter. Even in a modern city like Rotterdam!

Separated cycle paths are obviously wonderful for cycling safety, but more than that, drivers here are also cyclists themselves and therefore drivers are cautious of cyclists. The driver-cyclist relationship is respectful, friendly, and symbiotic (for the most part).

You honestly cannot walk 10 feet without seeing something to do with the bicycle. And neither wind, rain, nor snow will stop people from using their bike. No matter what--you'll always see the fietspad full of cyclists!

Well, Elliot and I are off to the Dutch countryside for a short weekend adventure. We hope to see

some nature, enjoy the crisp outdoors, and take advantage of the beautiful fall colors while the leaves are still on the trees. We're not bringing our bikes--our feet will have to do!

xo