Vitamin D on the coast of Turkey

After some rainy weather in Istanbul, we were ready for sun. Thanks to my loving parents, they offered to give us some of their hotel points so we could stay in the super fancy Sheraton on Cesme, a small beach town near Izmir. We had a spectacular room overlooking the still waters and coastline. Plus, there was a huge grocery store just down the street, so every day we stocked up on mezzes and wine and ate lunch and dinner on our balcony.



One of the highlights of the region is a day-trip to Ephesus, an ancient city dating back to 6000BC. During the Roman ages (1st c BC), the city's population was about 250,000--one of the largest in the world. It was complete with plazas, schools, baths, debate center, library, gymnasium, shops, and of course the impressive Great Theater, which held 25,000 people. The city had an elaborate system of underground pipes and sewer system.

There is still so much to learn about this ancient city. Amazing enough: the remains we see today is only about 20% of the entire city. Keep working hard archeology grad students!

  

In ancient times, this promenade lead to the water...now it leads to silt and marsh.

We really enjoyed the fresh Efes and pide! Especially after the long day of touring. 




After two full days of sunning and swimming, we hopped back in our rental car and checked out a small neighboring Greek village, called Alicati. Super adorable town with a whole lot of charm.



I was sad to leave the sun and holiday vibes of Turkey, but I was certainly looking forward to one thing: rolling out that carpet! Luckily, when we unpacked it, we both still totally loved the carpet. Happy one year anniversary to each other!

Best of Istanbul (Part 3/3)

Our days in Istanbul were flying by quickly! We tried to balance every day with a major site (or two) in the Sultanhamet, good food, chill-out time at the apartment, and evening outings. It was hard to juggle, but I think in the end we did the best we could. We left carpet-buying and other bazaar purchases until the very last day, which was a good choice. So here's the last top 10 for the final couple days:

1. Wandering the grounds and gardens of the Topkapi Palace
2. People watching in über-posh Bebek, north of the city center
3. Walking through the alleys in/around the Spice Bazaar, stopping to purchase Turkish coffee
4. Getting lost in the neighborhood streets near the Galata Tower
5. Noshing on the best baklava in Istanbul at Karaköy Güllüoglu
6. The amazing history and structure of the Aya Sofia
7. Striking a deal with carpet seller
8. Combing through hundreds of Turkish towels to find the right color combination
9. Eating at a mehane on the crowded Nevizade  
10. Enjoying a glorious sunset with family, friends, mezzes and Turkish wine

What a wonderful trip to Istanbul! Up next: 3 nights on the beach...

  

Best of Istanbul (Part 2/3)

We stayed in a small 2-bedroom flat in the Beyoglu-Galata neighborhood all 6 nights--I highly recommend the area for a longer stay. We ended up going into the Sultanahmet almost every day for sight-seeing, but it was worth staying on the neighborhood-y side, closer to the Istikal and other more interesting neighborhoods.

Ok, here's the next top 10...

1. the gardens and view of the Blue Mosque (not worth the queue to go in)
2. wandering the streets around the Spice Bazaar and the "New" Mosque (from the 1500s)
3. chowing fresh fish sandwiches at the Galata Bridge
4. watching people drink the pickle juice with their fish sandwiches (no thanks)
5. walking the cozy streets of the Cihangir neighborhood
6. finding a small deli for mezes and beer
7. admiring the SF-like homes of Cihangir (with plenty of hanging laundry)
8. wandering through the vintage shops in Cukurcuma
9. ending up on the Istikal, seemingly out of nowhere
10. sunset drinks at Mikla

  

Best of Istanbul (Part 1/3)

When my parents asked if we wanted to meet up in Istanbul, we jumped on the chance and opted for a full 6 nights in the city with 7 hills (just like SF). Who wouldn't, right? Plus I always love flying Turkish Air.

I was in Istanbul with a dear friend a few years ago, but we only had 3 days to explore the massive city. Though I saw most of the heavy-hitting sites back then, I was more than ok to see them all again. This time, I was determined to see the outer-lying neighborhoods and maybe even explore the Asian side.
Istanbul is a magical city. Vibrant, exciting, and full of contradiction. Old and new. Asia and Europe. Islam and Christian. The Euro and the Lira. East and West. Poverty and wealth. It's difficult to describe, you just have to go. Before it all changes.

The first audible sign you're in a totally different place is of course the 4am call to prayer. Gets you every time. It woke us up the first two or three nights, but then it just falls into your dreams.

I have so many shots of the city and people, I don't want to bore you with words. Here's my top ten for part 1. Don't hold your breath, there are 3 parts to this blog...

1. the stunning produce at every little vegetable stand, including the one outside our doorstep
2. Galata Bridge fisherman-watching
3. fresh simit (sesame-bagel thing) from a street vendor

4. the Süleymaniye Mosque

5. shopping at the Grand Bazaar, say no more ... and allow 2 days

6. ice cold Sirma lemon drink, accompanied by kebab

7. Turkish coffee: sitting on a stool in the middle of a busy intersection of the Bazaar

8. a walk/tram up to Kabataş, along the Bosphorus

9. Turkish tea with a view of the Bosphorus + daily dose of baklava

10. Stroll down the Istikal, enjoy the madness