A countryside drive to Bilbao

From San Sebastian, we took the long way to Bilbao. We went through the mountains and stopped at two small towns. The first stop was sort of by accident. That is, we were forced to stop because of a 100-km bike race going on at the same time. Luckily for us, the bike race was coming through this small town in about 20 minutes from the time we arrived. And when the cyclists came, it over in a flash! So quick around that corner!

Our next stop was Elanxobe, a hillside village that our Lonely Planet claimed to be a "Cinque Terra of the Basque region." I wouldn't have called it that, but it was very charming. Since we were delayed with the bikes, we arrived right in time for siesta--absolutely no one was around. The only 6 people awake were the 2 bartenders at the only café in town (and they were wrapping up the last few pintxos) and the 4 people eating the last of the pintxos. We immediately ordered the remaining food and sat in the lovely sun.


It was about an hour and a half to get to Bilbao. Gorgeous drive with rolling hills and dotted with small villages. We arrived around 6pm, with just enough sun left to see the Guggenheim in natural light. All of us were immediately impressed with Bilbao. The guidebooks gloss over the city as Basque's second-best to San Sebastian. What a shame! It's equally exquisite, charming, clean, picturesque, and generally lovely. The old city has old-world charm and the new city is modern and hip. Totally cool and we all wished we had one more day to explore.

After seeing the outside of the Guggenheim (note to self: check opening hours of famous museums before planning a trip!), we walked through the new city and found another enticing pintxos spot for some dinner. The last of the trip! It was all quite delicious, and none of us were ready to leave Basque--or each other either!

I'm so grateful for the wonderful girlfriends in my life. You never how close you really are until you're 5000 miles apart! Love you B! 

Pinxto me! I think I'm dreaming!

We left Barcelona in our snazzy little rental at around 11am. Our first stop was around 2:30pm, at a small camping area nestled in the Pyrenees for a long, Spanish lunch. No siesta for us, though, we kept going. We had to make it to our next apartment by 7pm. Our next stop on the way was Ainsa, a small and very old village dating back to the 11th century. It's perched on top of a hill with breathtaking views over the valley.

The rain was pounding down by the time we got back in the car. We still had quite a ways to drive. Getting in to San Sebastian was a bit difficult, but we finally made it to the apartment in the city center at 8:30. We were all hungry, tired of the car (thanks Kevin for all the driving!), and ready for some pinxtos (peen-chos)--San Sebastian's version of tapas. Just down the street we found a friendly place and had our first round. Fish, octopus, patatas bravas, asparagus. They were good, but not mind-blowing.

The next morning we all were very healthy and went out for a jog on the beach. The weather was crisp and beautiful. I was immediately enthralled with this city; it's just stunning. The gorgeous Belle-Epoque architecture, super clean sidewalks, and so many bike lanes it rivals Amsterdam.


Once cleaned up, we were ready for another round of pinxtos, this time in the old center. We easily found the restaurant we had reservations for that night too, and couldn't help but check out the menu. It was going to be a good night.

Pinxtos are basically in every bar, presented to you in a very appealing way. A variety of goodness lays atop slices of baguette: Serrano ham, cheese, fish, mushrooms--you name it, it's on a slice. Some of them require heating, but most you can eat cold. You get a plate from the bartender, load it up, pay and then enjoy. You also must have a refreshing beer or txacoli (chya-kolee), which is a low-alcohol, effervescent white wine from the Basque region. It goes well with any pinxto. As do good girl friends...


After two more pinxto bars, it was time for a walk. It seemed like the whole city was on the same page. Everyone was heading for the beachfront promenade, even those on two wheels.



I didn't bring my camera to dinner that night, but I can assure you it was a delicious feast!

In the morning, we enjoyed our gorgeous apartment with a quiet morning, sipping coffee and reading up on where we should go for the day. We decided to take a drive to France, and stop at one or two of the small towns along the way. Hondarribia was adorable.



Lunch turned out to be around the corner, in the center of the town. Yes, more pinxtos. They don't get old!



On the way back, we took the longer route through the mountains. It was gorgeous.



By the time we got back, it was promenade time. I loved how all the older women dressed up for this time of the day. Pantsuits and blazers, and gossiping away.

Monday morning, we packed up and stopped at the cutest café for espresso and special Easter almond cake.


Onward to Bilboa, our last stop on the journey!

BFFs in Barcelona

Since it was still freezing (literally) in Holland, of course we jumped at the chance to meet up with dear friends in Barcelona, at the start of their 6-week European/Moroccan holiday. We all planned to meet and then rent a car and drive to San Sebastian, then Bilbao. Elliot and I flew in on Thursday afternoon and the four of us had one day to see some sights!




We headed straight to the La Sagrada Famillia. The last time I was in Barcelona--in 2004--I didn't get a chance to see it. It's incredible. Definitely go inside, it's another world in there. We took the elevator up to the top of the spires for the view of the city. Ahhhh t-shirts....finally....
Afterwards, we went to a super classy joint called Tandem Cocktail Bar and ordered nothing less than the perfect Barcelona gin and tonic. Served in a huge goblet with chunky ice cubes and Spanish Schweppe's tonic (which apparently is very different), this was the definition of delicious. Then we hopped down the street to a great restaurant Cervesería Catalana and had 6 different dishes of tapas, including the fried patatas topped with a poached egg. Yum.

Stuffed from tapas and the most delicious dessert ever, we walked back to the apartment and headed to bed. In the morning, Elliot and I took a short walk to get a little more Barca in...

We were back at the apartment around 9:30 and after a quick breakfast, we all headed out to grab a cab.

To San Sebastian we go!!